May 7, 2015 - Paris 2015
- Jae Wiens
- Aug 28, 2020
- 6 min read
Updated: Apr 3, 2022
Bonjour tout le monde!
A few busy days again as I gradually come to the end of my amazing journey here in Paris! Definitely need to make another trip to this great city. A week was certainly not long enough. I haven’t seen a lot of the many monuments and museums that may have been on my list, but what I have seen will be etched in my memory for so long to come...until the next time.
Yesterday, I spent my morning with Jim Morrison and just a few thousand other souls at the Père Lachaise Cimetière. This was such an extraordinary cemetery. Yes, people have been dying to get into this place for centuries. Sorry, couldn’t resist!
Jim Morrison’s grave has now been barricaded off to the public with cameras surrounding the site. It used to hold a bust of Jim’s likeness but a few years ago some fans decided it belonged elsewhere and stole it from his burial plot.
This disrespect of the dead was quite noticeable even when I visited yesterday as groups of tourists and students, loud and somewhat obnoxious, made their way through the cemetery while a few funeral processions were filing through the cemetery to put loved ones to rest. Rather sad to see this celebrity culture mentality overshadow the sombreness of others’ loss.
Grave sites that I could see were dating back pre-1500’s, through the Black Plague, French Revolutionary times, the many battles and wars...until the present. A lot of the burial plots were grown over with moss or trees rooting themselves in place so they have become unknown resting places for many, yet so beautiful, with large maples,
chestnut, and elm trees standing guard like sentinels. It was a reminder to visitors, that life stories had once existed for those passed on.
I found it quite intriguing how the living built up the sites for those considered of “importance” in life, and yet these people remain as dead as the rest. Seems like the memorials and these views of distinction are more for the living, I suppose! After all, don't we each hold a place in this life, in history? No one gets out of this life alive. Everyone is important!
A humbling experience for sure. I came away from this visit glad to be alive and re-dedicating my life to living it as fully as I can.
After spending hours wandering through this cemetery, I made my way through the streets towards the centre of Paris. Seeing the Colonne de Juillet (July Column) was quite impressive!
This monument was erected between 1835 to 1840 to commemorate the Revolution of 1830. From the 27 - 29 July, 1830, otherwise known in French as Trois Glorieuses, King Charles X fell from power and was replaced by King Louis-Philippe, King of the French. His reign was known as the July Monarchy. He ruled France from 1830 to 1848, and was the last king of France.
The Génie de la Liberté or the "Spirit of Freedom", is a golden winged statue above the brass column. The column is engraved in gold with the names of those who were killed during the revolution. According to various sources, it stands 154 feet or 47 metres high in the centre of a traffic circle. It is surely something one cannot help but stop and stare at, yet the traffic didn’t seem to miss a beat and continued to flow as smoothly as ever.
I have to admit that I am really impressed with the traffic here, and more so with the brave traffic police officers who stand out in the middle of it all blowing their whistles and waving their hands in all different directions. Talk about organized chaos. I just had to watch for a few minutes, amazed by their focus and authority. I couldn’t even imagine what would happen if they felt the urge to scratch their nose or something with their passing captive audiences. Mostly though, this traffic seems so safe and as a pedestrian here, this is foremost in my mind. As I continued to walk, I eventually crossed over to the island of the city, where Notre Dame cathedral is situated.
This Lady of Paris was built from 1163 to 1345, and was consecrated to the Virgin Mary.
This French Gothic cathedral is so incredibly elegant with its manicured gardens and the razor like steeples slicing upwards towards the sky with numerous open-mouthed gargoyles, which look downwards at the passer-bys staring upwards.
These gargoyles look almost too heavy to be attached to the sides and corners. They seem to be perched so precariously like they could fly off at any moment or topple over. And it's almost like they are watching at every angle, at each movement. It is kind of eerie yet really cool, making the medieval era come alive still.
Notre Dame has seen so much history, including the French Revolution, the coronation of Napoleon I, various wars, and funerals of royalty, presidents, as well as other dignitaries. This is also the home of the Crown of Thorns, one of the nails and a piece of the cross from Jesus Christ’s Crucifixion.
In 1831, the cathedral was scheduled to be demolished, but with Victor Hugo’s publication of “The Hunchback Of Notre Dame”, the public’s interest was renewed in saving the cathedral, and was subsequently restored.
(As a side note, the Notre Dame Cathedral is undergoing significant restoration work due to a major fire on April 15, 2019, which was suspected of starting through on-going renovation work. It is hoped that these repairs are finalized in time for the Summer Olympics in 2024.)
I also went to the Deportation Museum, which is on the east side of Notre Dame. This museum commemorates the rounding up and transporting of over 250,000 Jews by the French Police, who were collaborating with the Nazis during WWII. Only 2,500 of these Jewish people survived.
A far less visited and touristy museum, but in my opinion, far more powerful. It was down by the Seine which is very high and fast flowing at the moment so I was told by the lady at the ticket office to be extremely careful because it was quite dangerous. I saw a police boat out on the water as I made my way down the stairs, so felt reassured somewhat as the waves were cresting the barricade.
The museum was a very simple place, which seemed stark and empty compared to the pageantry and excessiveness of much of what I have seen. The word “raw” came to mind.
There are 2 main corridors with iron prison gates at the end, the names of the death camps, and quotes by survivors. The main and central corridor seems to be endless
with the walls etched to depict the many names of those who never returned, and a small pinpoint of light at the end of the tunnel to represent hope. And then outside, there is a rose garden in full bloom. Simple and very beautiful!
This city seems to be a meeting place of various political causes taking place in the world and presented in such a diplomatic way. No judgements, no biases, allowing those interested to make up their own minds.
Today, I headed to Montmartre, with which I have been mesmerized as I viewed it from afar this week.
Stepping out of the subway station, immediately I came face to face with the famous Moulin Rouge, where its cabaret shows have been carrying on for over a century now.
This area has been known as one of the main risqué parts of Paris over the years with brothels and prostitution being the main, (shall I say...?), focus. As well, this area became well-known for studios and cafes over the years, with many renowned artists, writers and singers setting up shop or homes here. This hasn’t changed much, even now.
Along the way, there were so many quaint cafes, great artisan souvenir shops, markets selling flowers, seafood, breads, chocolate, cheese, clothes... Loved the festive atmosphere as I got closer to the top.
I came upon increasingly larger crowds making the "pilgrimage" through the narrow streets to the top of Montmartre (Martyr’s Hill or Mountain). Montmartre was named as such when Denis, the Bishop of Paris was martyred by the Romans. He was canonized as St. Denis as a result of his death.
The Sacre Coeur Basilica on top of Montmartre, the second highest point of elevation in Paris after the Eiffel Tour, was started in the late 1800’s and finished in 1914 but was only consecrated in 1919 due to the interruption of WWI.
The Basilica was bombed numerous times by the Nazis during WWII but stood up to each of these attempts to destroy it. The architecture tends to epitomize strength, perhaps lending itself to the faith that some people practice there!
Great to see this colossal place of worship up close and personal after waking up and going asleep to this phenomenal sight each morning and night.
Such a diverse area - provocative, religious and cultural - all at the same time. How convenient!!
I must head for bed now - so late for me - my last day tomorrow so I need to make my day a full one - so many crepes to eat, lots of wine to still drink, and chocolate to buy which may only last part of the way home!
Be writing to you one more time before I leave on Saturday morning.
Hope all is well wherever you may call home. Enjoy life!
Salut, Jae
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