September 5, 2013 - Poland 2013

I have now arrived in Warsaw after another 6 hour train trip through the Polish countryside. Poland is so beautiful, and it was wonderful to see it on a lovely summer day and evening!

Wrocław was so amazing! A true mix of history, culture, various styles of architecture - medieval, Gothic, Baroque, German influenced, Stalinist and Communist gray, square apartment blocks...

CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER AND PAUL IN WROCŁAW

Many crumbling buildings are still under repair from the WWII era due to a lack of finances or time required to renovate. This seems to be the city of churches of different religions, and they sure didn't believe in any small endeavours. All the cathedrals, synagogues, as well as libraries, universities...are just massive and extraordinary. So much to take in! Wow!

The history of this architecture astounds me. In visiting cathedrals and the market square, some of the structures date back to the 12th or 10th centuries or earlier. It leaves me humbled by how much I don't know and how I look forward to learning more about this area's and country's history.

Part of Wrocław’s history under Communism includes small bronze statues of dwarves. Believe it or not!!! These little statues commemorate the movement known as the Orange Alternative. In the 1980’s, the Orange Alternative protested Communism by

drawing over propaganda posters and graffiti with graffiti of their own in the form of these dwarves. As well, whenever Communist gatherings were held and the crowds dispersed, small statues would be left behind. Of course this was seen as undermining the Communists and provoked the ire of the Communist party until the fall of Communism in the late 1980’s.

There are now walking tours to find these numerous intricate bronze statues located at unusual places around Wrocław. In fact, every September there is a Dwarves’ Festival. In Polish these figures are called “krasnale”.

PRISONER DWARF (KRASNALE)

Yesterday I took a tour of Project Riese, which included Kompleks Osowka or Riese Complex, and Książ Castle outside of Wrocław.

Kompleks Osowka/Riese Complex is a series of giant underground tunnels found in the Owl Mountains after WWII. These were dug by prisoners of the Gross-Rosen concentration camp, which was a sub-camp of the Sachsenhausen concentration/death camp. Of course you can imagine how well these prisoners were treated!

I only went through one of these tunnels, although there are six sites in total that have been found and it is believed, there are more to be dis

covered.

There are many theories about what the Nazis were building these for but there was never any documentation found once the Nazis left the area. Lots of speculation of possible nuclear bunkers, weapon hiding places, art plunder storage areas and so on, but nothing has really been confirmed.

These tunnels were large enough for transport trucks or train cars, so anything was possible. It was rather eerie going through but really cool at the same time. I also went to the majestic Książ Castle. This castle is also part of Project Riese and had been taken over by the Nazis to become one of Hitler's headquarters.

Again, it is still uncertain as to what was the purpose of the project since the Nazis never left any documentation.

The castle had previously been the residence of Winston Churchill's Aunt Daisy and her family.

This castle dates back before 1263. The first fortified residence was destroyed at this time and was rebuilt in 1288. This castle had a few different styles added on through the centuries, including the tunnels built by the Gross-Rosen prisoners under horrific conditions and SS brutality.

KSIĄŻ CASTLE,THE LARGEST CASTLE IN THE SILESIA REGION NEAR WROCŁAW OVERLOOKING THE GORGE OF THE PEŁCZNICA RIVER

Tomorrow I will be taking a tour of Warsaw which is more modern than historic. During WWII the Polish resistance movement defied the Nazis and in retaliation the Nazis destroyed more than 85% of the city.

That being said, much of Warsaw has been restored to its original splendour where possible.

I will also be going to the Warsaw Uprising Museum, which is supposed to be incredible. I'll let you know how it goes!

Take care everyone! Hope all is well with all of you!

Cheers, Jae

THE MEDIEVAL MARKET SQUARE IN WROCŁAW FOUNDED BETWEEN 1214 AND 1232